Umlani Bushcamp. Timbavati.

 

 

 

To reach this camp in Timbavati, I took the route from Johannesburg via Sabie, Graskop, Bushbuckridge, and Acornhoek.

I overnighted with friends in Sabie as the drive from there to the camp is about 2 hours and 45 minutes depending on traffic. It was a Sunday when I rolled into Umlani and I have to say that there was little or no traffic along my chosen route.

It had been dry for several weeks before my arrival, hence this circle in front of the reception was looking particularly ‘tired’, but I have been told that there have been good rains since my visit and that this has sprung back into life.

When the Aloes are in bloom, their bright orange flowers will spectacularly contrast against the green.

 

 

 

THIS is why I come to the bush.

To me, leopards are solitary apex predators and seeing one when out on a drive is a highlight of any bush visit for me.

In this instance, the experience was enhanced when we spotted a cub hidden in the grass as if teasing us before coming out to spend time with mom.

What made this sighting extra special is the fact that leopard cub mortality can be high. And it is for that reason that many of the reserves in this area do not name leopard cubs until they are a year old.

 

 

 

The camp bathed in the early morning light, just before the sun rose.

I get to enjoy a coffee and a biscuit while awaiting the arrival of the rest of the guests before we all headed out on the morning drive.

It is during this pre-dawn time that I feel especially grateful to be able to be in the bush regularly.

The stillness of the early morning air was broken by the soft chatter from the kitchen and the monkeys scurrying through the foliage above my head.

The reflections of the trees can be seen in the pool at the bottom of the path.

 

 

 

This is the indoor dining area. It’s here that guests gather to share breakfast and dinner.

Not seated at individual tables, but altogether so that stories can be shared and guests can interact with each other.

I have met the most wonderful people when seated like this as I tend to ask questions…

And some of the answers that I have received are unexpected.

I have met a Swiss national who trains dog trainers

There is always at least 1 doctor in the group…and on this occasion, there were several, including a father and daughter as well as an ex-guide who is now a small animal vet in the UK.

I have met people who have not been able to tell me what it is they do for fear of breaking protocol when it comes to the national intelligence services of the country they come from.

And finally, I met, for the first time a family from the USA that are Republicans.

We did have interesting conversations, but NOT about politics.

I met a couple almost 30 years ago who allowed me to share their vehicle as I was not happy with the guest on the vehicle I was allocated. We are still friends and have subsequently been on safari together and we are in touch regularly.

Such is the power of friendships forged on bush holidays.

 

 

 

This was my accommodation. Room 4, otherwise known as the Impala Room.

It was also the first rondavel built on this property to house the owners.

When they started a family, they had to move into more protected (read brick and mortar) accommodation.

This then became guest accommodation and I certainly enjoyed sleeping here.

I have been reliably informed that it is about to have some TLC lavished on it and it will be renovated in 2025.

 

 

 

Nothing wrong with an extremely comfortable bed and linen that is sleep-inducing.

There was an en-suite shower, toilet and basin which meant that I did not have to leave my rondavel after dark.

The camp is unfenced and guests are encouraged to stay in their rooms once they have retired for the night.

To this end, they are walked back after dinner by a staff member, just to make certain that nothing untoward occurs.

 

 

 

Part of the main lounge and bar area. Lunch was served here during my visit and in winter I am told that it is the ideal place to congregate around the fire.

It was 41c while I was in camp, so no fire was required!

 

 

 

Another view of the same space.

Minimal decoration seems to have become the trend in a post-COVID world.

And there is nothing wrong with that. Less can be more.

 

 

 

An impressive guest book which was gifted by a visitor on either the 20th or 25th anniversary of the camp.

The camp manager could not remember when exactly, but it does make for interesting reading.

The fact that it contains the comments of many multiple-returning guests bears testimony as to why Umlani is still so popular as a safari destination.

Why so many returning guests?

For me, it was the attitude of the staff. Always friendly, always smiling they were the epitome of professionalism without being intrusive.

There are so many upmarket lodges where the staff are constantly asking guests if they would like ‘something’…whatever that something might be.

Many years ago, I stayed at a coastal dive lodge where we were offered food/drinks on an almost minute-by-minute basis. It was therefore little wonder that our wetsuits no longer fitted us by the time we left.

This was not the case at Umlani, although staff were present if you DID require help of some sort.

 

 

 

Lunch is served…

If I am honest, this is the ONLY food photograph that I have of my stay here.

“Why”?, I hear you ask.

Well, the food was so delicious that I invariably started eating before I realized that I had not taken a picture.

This wrap was so tasty that I returned for seconds.

Congratulations to the kitchen staff for producing award-winning meals daily.

 

 

 

The deck in the morning before the staff placed the umbrellas, tables and chairs on it.

 

 

 

Seated here, I was able to watch animals coming and going across the dry river bed in front of the camp.

 

 

 

When a drink is an overriding need, a standoff ensues.

In this case, it was a mixed pack of 22 wild dogs. The adults, sub-adults and pups very quickly concluded that the zebra were just too big to turn into a protein source.

Both predator and ‘prey’ took turns at the waterhole, ensuring that all got to drink without any violent interaction.

There was a moment when some of the pups got a little close, but it was, I think, more out of curiosity than actually believing that they would be successful in securing a meal.

Lots of dust and noise, but little else.

 

 

 

An interesting sighting for me.

A non-venomous Spotted Bush snake that had just finished consuming a small frog.

I was visiting the Tree House, about 2,5km from the camp where guests can spend time.

The guide and I discovered it when we opened the trap door which gives access to the platform that comprises the tree house.

Often mistaken for a highly venomous Boomslang, I left this little fellow to finish its meal in peace.

Often if a snake is scared or disturbed while eating, it will regurgitate its meal to distract the predator.

I did not want it to lose the meal so I sat and quietly watched as the frog was ingested and the snake vanished into a nearby tree.

 

 

 

For the uninitiated, this is a freshwater terrapin.

Not to be mistaken for a saltwater turtle or a land-dwelling tortoise.

I was quite taken aback by this specimen that marched straight out of the water and tried to climb INTO my camera lens!

Seemingly unafraid of the humans having a coffee break on the side of the water hole it called home.

 

 

 

A pair of Tawny Eagles that I found perched on a tree near the camp.

And no, this is not a manipulated image, it IS two birds.

 

 

 

As the camp is completely off-grid, it is powered by solar. More than enough to charge electronic devices and keep the wi-fi connectivity constant.

The lighting is not as harsh as electric light and adds a warm ambience to the mood of the camp, the accommodation and public spaces.

The signpost is to direct guests to their rooms, not to where those particular animals might be seen.

 

 

 

From sunrise…

 

 

 

To sunset…

This is a special camp where experiences and memories can be made and friendships formed.

 

 

 

We left this lioness tucking into her dinner as we headed back to camp to enjoy ours.

She was part of a pride of 19 individuals that had taken down 3 buffalo and a large male nyala, all on the same day.

There was little or nothing left of the female buffalo or her calf when we went back the following morning.

But with 19 hungry mouths to feed, I was not surprised.

 

 

 

Dinner is served.

This table setting, complete with napkins folded in the shape of lotus blossoms, would not look out of place at a fine-dining urban restaurant or a 5-star lodge.

Umlani is certainly a lodge that punches above its weight and seeing that they have been around for almost 4 decades, they must be doing SOMETHING right…

Highly recommended as an authentic bush getaway.

 

 

 

To find out more about what this unique bushcamp offers, click on the logo above.

 

 

 

Travel is the proud winner of this prestigious award from the digital British lifestyle magazine Luxlife. The award is in the category Best Travel & Experiences Blog 2024 – South Africa.

 

 

 

Check out the archived and current interviews… click on the image above.

 

 

“Hard work never killed anybody, but why take a chance?”

Edgar Bergen