Having ‘endured’ the Swartberg Pass to get from Oudtshoorn to Prince Albert, we were looking for an alternative route home.
The most obvious was Meiringspoort, not quite as daunting as Swartberg, but hauntingly beautiful for many reasons.
Many mountain passes boast sweeping views and hairpin bends, but Meiringspoort turns the drama up a notch: the road crosses the same river — the Groot River — 25 times in as many kilometres.
Each crossing (or “drift,” as they’re known locally) has its own descriptive name and story: from Ontploffingsdrif (say that three times fast) to Nooiensboomdrif.
To quote Nelson deMille from his book Up Country: “The journey home is never a direct route: it is, in fact, always circuitous and somewhere along the way, we discover that the journey is more significant than the destination”…
The rock formations in Meiringspoort are among the oldest storytellers in the Karoo, having been carved over millions of years by the relentless power of water, wind, and time. The pass slices through layers of Table Mountain Sandstone, quartzite, and ancient shale, revealing twisted folds, rippled textures, and dramatic contortions that speak of powerful geological forces at work.
In places, the rock seems almost alive—curved, sculpted and smoothed into organic shapes that catch the light differently depending on the time of day. This image captures one of those formations: a rugged swirl of stone that hints at the raw energy that once shaped this mountain range, and continues to mesmerise travellers today.
It wasn’t easy to look up, take photographs and be amazed at the rock formations.
But when an opportunity arose to pull over, I grabbed it with both hands…
About 12 km in from De Rust lies the highlight: the waterfall. It plunges approximately 60 metres down a smooth cliff into a deep, clear pool, some nine metres deep. A short hike (with steps carved back in 1925 for a visit from the then Prince of Wales) brings you to the splash zone — perfect for a photo stop, a dip or just a moment of Karoo serenity.
So THIS was the underwhelmingly named Meiringspoort Falls… but the long hike up the steep stairs was worth it.
What sets Meiringspoort apart isn’t just stone and water — it’s story. According to local legend, the deep pool at the waterfall is home to a mermaid named Eporia. When travellers disrespect her domain, she’s said to unleash floods that wipe out the drifts and wash the road away. And it seems she’s earned her stripes — the pass has been badly hit by floods (notably in 1996), and the ongoing repairs only add to the mythical tension of the place.
It runs through a series of pools, and the speed and quantity of the water depend on the rainfall upstream.
The water is crystal clear and drinkable. There were also various species of fish to be seen, darting around in the pool.
Yes, the Swartberg Pass has drama with its dry-stone walls and sweeping vistas, but Meiringspoort has a few aces up its sleeve for those who prefer a slightly gentler drive.
The newly-tarred route through the Poort is more straightforward for most vehicles, compared to the steeper climbs of Swartberg.
Few mountain passes in the region offer a waterfall plus a plunge-pool picnic like this one.
Now you understand why this road is the easier option for visitors to the area.
Meiringspoort doesn’t just get you from A to B—it gives you a story, a swim and a cliff-wand perspective all in one. With every drift you cross and every twist you take, you’re moving through stone that’s been folding, flowing and fascinating for millions of years. Add a mermaid (or two) for company, and this pass becomes more than a detour—it becomes the highlight. So next time you’re driving the Klein to the Great Karoo, skip just climbing over the mountain and instead slide through its guts. Let Meiringspoort do the rest.
There is something about moving water that is hypnotic.
A final look into the pool, and it was time to head back to the car and head back to our accommodation in Oudtshoorn.
It is said that if you stare into the abyss, then the abyss stares back at you. I certainly had that impression here.
The site is clean and well managed, and there is no charge for visitors who wish to head up to the falls.
The toilets in the car park were clean and well-maintained.
Well done to all involved in not only the cleanliness but the ongoing upkeep as well.
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