The word “Amava” means “experiences” in isiXhosa.
And to prove that point, these are some of my experiences during a recent return visit to this wonderful lodge.
The sound of a woodpecker in a Jackalberry tree on the riverbank opposite the lodge vied with the occasional vocalising of a lion that I could hear for much of the afternoon but never got to see.
The woodpecker was impossible to spot for identification, but sound travels incredibly well across water, and the rat-a-tat-tat was the background soundtrack as I relaxed on the deck of the lodge.
FYI:
The Jackalberry tree holds significant spiritual meaning in some African cultures, often associated with ancestral spirits and is therefore considered sacred.
The tree’s ability to thrive in diverse environments and provide resources for various creatures further reinforces its spiritual significance as a provider and a symbol of resilience.
A window to the world, or in this case, the river, as it passes by?
Watching the Olifants River flowing past the camp was a meditative experience. It allowed me time to reflect on my life’s journey and the choices, some good and some bad, that I have made in my adult years. I was to discover that the imagery of a river can symbolise time, change, and the vastness of nature.
As an aside: “Watching the river flow” is also the title of a Bob Dylan song released in 1971.
With lions vocalising close by, and crocodiles patrolling the river, it was no wonder that this small herd of impala were on high alert.
Yet, almost unaffected by the fact that their species is the apex prey of many, if not all, predators, they continue to do what impala do…seemingly without a care in the world.
With the grunting of a pod of hippo on a sandbank a short distance upstream from where I was seated, sipping a coffee and watching the colour of the sky change, this herd crossed the river.
The elephants had a reason to hurry, as I had been informed that one of the youngsters had recently fallen prey to a crocodile that claimed this part of the river as its territory.
On previous visits, I had noticed it on a sandbank and at around 4m long, it was an impressive sight.
DISCLAIMER: VIDEO FOOTAGE NOT FOR SENSITIVE VIEWERS.
Crocs have been known to successfully hunt elephant young, and the interaction between the croc, the youngster and its mother was witnessed and captured on video by staff and guests who were in camp at the time.
Eventually, the wood pecker settled down and the sound of its beak rapping away at the trunk of a tree was replaced by the ” drink lager” call of Turtle Doves in the foliage around Amava River Camp.
Time to sit around a fire and share a moment of appreciation with others for all that I had witnessed during the day.
The lyrics of the 1971 John Denver song, “Poems, Prayers and Promises”, were front of mind as I watched the dancing flames.
“And I have to say it now, it’s been a good life all in all, it’s really fine
To have a chance to hang around and lie there by the fire
And watch the evening tire
While all my friends and my old lady
Sit and pass the pipe around
And talk of poems and prayers and promises
And things that we believe in“.
In this instance, there was no passing a pipe around, but we all shared bushveld tales and experiences.
As the light faded, the ambience of the lodge transformed. The colours become softer, and the sounds from the darkness become more amplified.
There were few, if any, electronic devices to intrude or detract. Hence, the overriding sounds were not the beeping of mobile phones, but the authentic bushveld cacophony that enabled guests to turn the moment into an immersive experience.
I was not feeling blue, but the subtle lighting lent an ambience of being seated in a fine dining restaurant.
Dinner was about to be served, followed by an early night. The latter, assisted by copious quantities of fresh air. There is something about the air outside of an urban environment that is conducive to sleep. And I do not fight that feeling…sleep is regenerative and ANY opportunity should be utilised.
Just before the sun vanished beyond the surrounding mountains, a troop of baboons could be heard being called to order by the dominant male. No sooner had he barked his evening instructions than all the individuals immediately quieted down and settled into their overnight sleeping quarters.
Something in the river glides past my vantage point. Out of the corner of my eye, it attracts my interest. I reach for my ever-present camera. Is it a hippo, or could it be a croc, I wonder as I bring the viewfinder to my eyes. It is neither. Just a small flotilla of water reeds going past.
Yet, on the far bank, I spot this ancient reptile…a Nile croc getting some of the winter sun to warm itself.
Did you know?
Nile crocodiles, lions and leopards are considered apex predators.
The largest Nile crocodile ever recorded was 6,45m and weighed between 1043-1089kg. It was found near Mwanza, Tanzania.
Nile crocodiles exhibit complex social behaviours and are known for their parental care, with both parents fiercely guarding their nests and even assisting with hatching.
This Little Egret flew past me on silent wings. Almost skimming the water, it vanished around a bend, leaving behind a silence and a tangible emptiness.
Perhaps an analogy for visits to the bush? Where guests enjoy both interactions with nature and each other, yet in the end, they leave. Fond farewells are often well-intentioned, yet these guests seldom, if ever, meet again.
The goodbye is not a distraction from the overall experience; it adds a layer to stories that will be told when returning home.
The river runs silently past me with not a rock to cause it to tumble, cascade, or even give the impression that it is a mighty river. But it is. This is the highest level I have seen the river at in the times that I have visited this camp.
Usually, several sandbanks on this stretch of the river become a haven for water birds, hippo and even a basking croc or two. Not a single one was visible on this trip.
Did you know? The Olifants River, also known as the Rio dos Elefantes in Mozambique, starts between the towns of Breyten and Bethal.
Flowing northwards, it eventually curves east through Kruger National Park and into Mozambique.
It finally reaches the Indian Ocean near Xai-Xai, north of Maputo.
One day, all tented accommodation will be made like this.
Darkness in the bush is different from the urban experience. At this lodge, there is little or no ambient light to temper the darkness, and as a result, it is inky black with only the stars to offer a light source.
Night does not creep in like a thief in the night; here it crashes in like a hippo.
And with the darkness comes the noises of the night. Cocooned in my bed, wrapped in comfortable linen, I try to decipher what I am listening to.
The whoop of a hyena in the distance. The continuing vocalisation of a pair of lions that gets closer then fades into the distance once more. The splashing I hear in the river below, could that be fish, frogs or hippo?
While I try to decide, the audio overload causes me to slip into sleep, still pondering.
An early morning coffee and rusks on the deck of my accommodation while I watch the sunrise.
“Morning has broken like the first morningBlackbird has spoken like the first birdPraise for the singing, praise for the morningPraise for them springing fresh from the world”.
Were you aware? The song Morning Has Broken, made popular in 1971 by singer Cat Stevens (now known as Yusuf Islam), was a funeral hymn written in 1931 and based on Dvořák’s Symphony No. 9, and contained a message about finding peace in the next life
Just another day in Africa? I don’t think so, as every day brings with it the promise of fresh experiences and exciting adventures.
Beginning with this herd of elephants emerging from the tree line for an early morning drink.
Since the recent crocodile incident, the herds have been cautious in their approach and are protective of their young.
Breakfast of champions? Or a time to reflect? I like to think both are appropriate.
No matter how cold the water, there is always that ONE person who will insist on trying it out.
Much like a “wet paint” sign seems to encourage touching for confirmation, water attracts guests, even though they KNOW it will be cold.
This image is used with permission…
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The awards are in the categories:
Best Travel & Experiences Blog 2024 – South Africa
Best African Game Reserves & Lodges Travel Review Site 2025.
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